Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.